Lena Savoie
During the Edo period of Japanese history (1603-1867/1868), the country's alcohol industry was dominated by sake, a rice wine made by fermenting rice that has been polished to remove the bran. Sake brewing traditionally took place in the winter, and this practice continued during the Edo period. The Edo period saw the development of new brewing methods, such as hashira jōchū, which added a small amount of distilled alcohol to the mash, and kimoto, which used steamed rice, kōji, and water. Sake was mass-produced in the coastal region of Nada and shipped to Edo, where it was consumed by about 50% of the population. In addition to sake, other alcoholic beverages consumed during the Edo period included shōchū, a distilled liquor made from starches like rice, barley, or sweet potato, and beer, which was introduced to Japan in the late 19th century.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Common alcoholic beverages | Sake, Shōchū, Sweet potato Shōchū |
| Sake production method | Brewing, Fermentation |
| Brewing method | Hashira Jōchū |
| Base ingredient | Rice |
| Region | Nada-Gogō area in Hyōgo Prefecture, Itami, Ikeda, Kobe |
| Sake consumption | 54 liters per capita in Edo |
| Served | Warm |
| Occasions | Cherry blossom viewing, New Year's Day, Doll Festival, Fireworks viewing |
| Sake-drinking culture | Izakaya |
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What You'll Learn
Sake was mass-produced and widely consumed
Sake, or Japanese rice wine, is an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting rice. During the Edo period, which lasted from the early 17th century to the mid-19th century, sake was mass-produced and widely consumed, particularly in the capital city of Edo, known today as Tokyo. The city's population included a large number of single men, and social customs of eating and drinking outside the home flourished. This led to a high demand for sake, which was often served with small dishes such as sashimi, fish cakes, tofu, and marinated vegetables at affordable prices. Sake was also readily available at restaurants and bars across the city, and it was served warm all year round during the Edo period.
The Nada-Gogō area in Hyōgo Prefecture, the largest producer of modern sake, was formed during the Edo period. When the population of Edo began to grow rapidly, brewers who made sake in inland areas such as Fushimi, Itami, and Ikeda moved to the Nada-Gogō area on the coast, where the weather and water quality were perfect for brewing sake. The region was also convenient for shipping the beverage to Edo. In addition, the practice of brewing sake only during the winter, when conditions are best suited to its production, was introduced during the Edo period and continues to this day.
During the Edo period, sake production underwent several improvements and began to be produced on a more industrial scale. Waterwheels were used to drive rice-polishing machines, enabling larger-scale production. Additionally, brewers in this period used a heat-based disinfection method, and the innovation of sake vessels made it easier to take the drink away and consume it casually with family and colleagues.
The consumption of sake increased rapidly during the Genroku era (1688–1704) of the Edo period, and large quantities of taruzake (barrel sake) were shipped to Edo. It is estimated that approximately 50% of Edo's population drank sake, resulting in an annual per capita consumption of up to 54 liters, which is 10 times higher than today's consumption. Sake was also enjoyed during seasonal events, such as cherry blossom viewing and New Year's Day, and was present during important life milestones such as weddings.
The production levels of sake reached their highest point in the 1970s with the widespread adoption of modern technology. However, the number of breweries has decreased since then, possibly due to increased competition from other alcoholic beverages. Despite this, the production and consumption of premium sake have been on the rise in recent years, and many smaller breweries continue to use traditional brewing methods.
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Shōchū was produced using traditional methods
During the Edo period, the Japanese drank a variety of alcoholic beverages, including sake, shōchū, and sweet potato shōchū. The production and consumption of sake were particularly prominent during this era.
Shōchū, a distilled beverage, was produced throughout Japan during the Edo period using the traditional kasutori method and single-pot distillation. This traditional production method was referred to as "old-style shōchū" to differentiate it from the “new-style shōchū" produced using multiple-distillation machinery introduced later. The process involved distillation in a single pot, and the resulting beverage was consumed or used in religious ceremonies.
One of the base ingredients for shōchū was sweet potato, which was widely cultivated across southern Kyūshū since the Edo period. Originally, sweet potato shōchū was almost exclusively produced in Kagoshima and Miyazaki prefectures, but it eventually spread to other regions. This variety of shōchū has a strong taste and a distinctive smell, with some likening its flavour to certain types of whiskey.
In addition to being consumed directly, shōchū played a role in sake production during the Edo period. A type of shōchū called hashira shōchū was added to sake to stop fermentation before completion, preventing degradation and imparting a dry taste to the final product.
While the production of shōchū using traditional methods has decreased sharply in modern times, there are efforts by cultural preservationists to revitalise the historical production process. This traditional shōchū is known as Seichō kasutori shōchū, distinguishing it from the modern varieties.
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Sake was drunk at social gatherings and events
Sake, an alcoholic beverage of Japanese origin, is made by fermenting rice that has been polished to remove the bran. During the Edo period, which lasted from the early 17th century to the mid-19th century, sake was a popular drink in the capital city of Edo, now known as Tokyo. The city had a high ratio of men to women, with a significant number of single men, and social customs of eating and drinking out were common. Sake was drunk at social gatherings and events, helping people from different provinces and with different customs to connect and socialise.
Sake was consumed in various settings during the Edo period, including in izakaya (casual food-and-drink pubs), pleasure quarters, restaurants, and theaters. It was also enjoyed outdoors, especially during seasonal events and milestones such as cherry blossom viewing, summer fireworks, and New Year's Day. The most common type of sake enjoyed outdoors was hanamizake, drunk while admiring cherry blossoms. Sake was also present during weddings and other significant life events.
The brewing method hashira jōchū, which involves adding a small amount of distilled alcohol (shōchū) to the mash, was developed during the Genroku era (1688-1704) of the Edo period. This technique enhanced the aroma and flavour of the sake while improving its quality. The Nada-Gogō area in Hyōgo Prefecture became a major producer of sake during this period, with brewers relocating there to take advantage of the ideal weather and water quality for brewing.
Sake played a significant role in the food culture of the Edo period. It was often served alongside dishes such as sashimi, soba noodles, grilled vegetables, and tofu topped with miso. Sake was also used in sauces, such as irizake sauce made of boiled katsuobushi, salt, and umeboshi pickled Japanese apricot. The custom of pouring sake for each other was common, and drinking competitions were even held, as depicted in the book Gosuichoki.
Overall, sake was an integral part of social gatherings and events during the Edo period in Japan, facilitating connections between people from different backgrounds and enhancing their enjoyment of food and cultural traditions.
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Sake was served warm all year round
Sake, or Japanese rice wine, is an alcoholic beverage made by fermenting rice. It is the national beverage of Japan and is served with a special ceremony. Sake is often warmed before serving, with the recommended temperature varying by type.
During the Edo period (1603-1867), sake brewing and consumption flourished in Japan, particularly in the city of Edo, known today as Tokyo. The rapid population growth of Edo in the early 1600s led to a high demand for sake, which was met by brewers in the coastal region of Nada. This region, located in the Kobe-Nishinomiya area of Hyōgo Prefecture, became the mass-production center for kudari-sake, which was shipped to Edo.
Nada-Gogō, a specific area within Nada, was formed during the Edo period and became the largest producer of modern sake. The weather and water quality in Nada-Gogō were ideal for brewing sake, and its proximity to Edo made shipping convenient. As a result, 80% of the sake drunk in Edo during this period originated from Nada-Gogō.
During the Edo period, sake was typically brewed in the winter due to the cooler temperatures that inhibited bacterial growth. In 1673, the Tokugawa shogunate banned brewing methods other than kanzukuri, resulting in sake production being limited to the winter season. This ban was in place until industrial technology developed in the 20th century, allowing for year-round brewing.
While the serving temperature of sake varies, it is traditionally warmed to a range of 98 degrees Fahrenheit (body temperature) to 110 degrees Fahrenheit. Warming sake enhances its aroma and flavour and is especially suitable for rich sake varieties like junmai or honjozo. However, it is important to avoid overheating, as it can negatively impact the taste.
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The brewing process was improved and industrialised
During the Edo period, the brewing process was improved and industrialised. The job of polishing rice, which was previously done by hand, was now being done on a larger scale using waterwheels to drive rice-polishing machines. The use of waterwheels allowed for more efficient and consistent polishing of rice, which is a crucial step in the sake-brewing process.
Another improvement was the development of the kimoto method of making starter mash. This method involves placing steamed rice, koji, and water into a wooden vat and stirring the mixture with a paddle to break down the rice. This process encourages the growth of lactic acid bacteria, which helps to sterilise harmful microorganisms and promote the growth of yeast. The yeast then produces alcohol, which also kills the lactic acid bacteria. The kimoto method results in sake with a richer aroma and a fuller body compared to other methods.
Carpentry skills also improved during this time, leading to the creation of large wooden pails that enabled brewers to make larger quantities of sake. Additionally, brewers began using a heat-based disinfection method, which was recorded in 1569, almost 300 years before the discovery of pasteurisation. This method likely improved the safety and quality of the sake.
The brewing process was also influenced by the development of a new type of brewing method called hashira jōchū, which originated in the Edo period. This method involves adding a small amount of distilled alcohol (shōchū) to the mash, improving the aroma and taste while preventing deterioration. This method is still used in modern sake brewing.
The Edo period also saw the industrialisation of sake production, particularly in the Nada region, which became the mass-production centre for kudari-sake, which was shipped to Edo. The annual consumption of sake in Edo was up to 54 litres per capita, with an estimated 102 litres of sake consumed per person per year. This high demand led to the establishment of breweries along the coast in Nada, where the weather and water quality were ideal for brewing sake.
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Frequently asked questions
Sake, a rice wine, is the most well-known alcoholic beverage in Japan. It is made by fermenting rice that has been polished to remove the bran. Sake is commonly served at Japanese restaurants and steakhouses.
Sake was widely consumed during the Edo period. It was produced on a more industrial scale, and technological advancements were made in the sake-brewing process. Sake brewers in the Nada region set up breweries along the coast, from where sake was shipped out directly to Edo.
Shōchū, a distilled liquor, was produced throughout Japan during the Edo period. It is made from starches such as rice, barley, sweet potato, or brown sugar. Beer was also introduced to Japan in the late 19th century, during the Meiji Restoration.
